Problems with Stand-alone Solar
Problems with stand-alone solar include false vendor claims, poor design and installation, too much/too little battery storage. Here’s how to solve the issues – and more. It also tells what vendors may not – also in plain English.
Q. Solar on the roof – or free-standing on racks?
My roof faces north-east and slopes at about 45 degrees. It has a clear view of the sky. The land faces north but it is shaded in winter until 8-9 am. Where should I locate the solar modules for optimum winter input?
A. Use the north facing land. You will not have much solar input in winter from 8-9 am regardless of location. For optimum winter input (at some loss in summer) angle the modules at your latitude angle plus 15-20 degrees.
Q. Problems with stand-alone solar – must solar modules be at an exact angle?
I’d like to have solar modules (a 1.5 kW system) on the roof of a north-facing shed. They will be five degrees steeper than recommended. The proposed installer insists they must be at exactly the same angle as my latitude. He is asking over $1000 to do so. Does five degrees really matter?
A. No. Even 10 degrees will make only a few per cent difference. Five degrees either way makes next to none. Insist this one does what you ask. Or talk to another installer.
Problems with stand-alone solar – do I need a solar tracking system in Australia?
A. Not unless you are in Hobart. Even then it’s marginal. Tracking increases solar input in high latitudes. It is, however, costly and complex. It also requires ongoing maintenance. Solar tracking was marginally worthwhile until 2010. Solar capacity costs have since dropped by over 80%. It is now far cheaper to accept the loss. Add solar capacity to compensate.
Q. Problems with stand-alone solar – do stand-alone solar systems produce what installers claim?
My (Australian outback) neighbours have big stand-alone solar systems. All say they produce only 70% of that expected. What are they doing wrong?
A. That 70% is typical. No solar system (stand-alone or grid-connect) produces its promoted output. That seemingly claimed is achieved only under controlled laboratory conditions. These do not replicate typical usage. That laboratory data however is misleadingly used for the promotionally claimed output.
The most typical output is, however, shown in solar module makers’ technical literature. It is often shown also on a data panel on the back of solar modules (as below).
Here, the most probable output (as shown in the third column), of a nominally 120 watt solar module is 87 watts. This output is known to the industry as NOCT – Nominal Operating Cell Temperature. It that most likely in typical usage. The ‘explanation’ for this apparent deception is large historical. It is long since time it ceased.
The third column of this data panel (of a typical high quality nominally 120 watts solar module) shows the most probable output as 87 watts. Pic: Author.
There are losses in the cabling, regulator and inverter, and yet while battery charging. A typically promoted 1.5 kW stand-alone system is unlikely to produce more than 1.2 kW most of the time.
Q. Do some solar panels (of the same area) produce more than others?
I’d like to have stand-alone solar but have limited space. Do some solar modules produce more than others of similar area?
Monocrystalline solar modules now (2020) and (due to new technology) output much the same as the best polycrystalline modules. However, in Solar Books opinion, the price premium charged by some makers is not justified by their additional performance. Buyer should consider the high quality monocrystalline brands such as Canadian Solar, JA Solar, Jinko Solar, Longi and Trina Solar.
The now rare amorphous solar modules are still only 10-14% efficient. They are, however, barely affected by heat. They can be made in thin flexible form.
Solar technologies (from left to right): polychromatic, monochromatic and amorphous.
Q. Why do some people use the term solar module – and others solar panel. Which is correct?
A. A single unit is a module. A number of interconnected modules on a single rack is a solar panel. Interconnected panels are an ‘array’. Correctly expressed, the photo below of our (previously owned) self-designed and built system below is an array of six panels each of six modules.
Our previously owned property north of Broome (Western Australia). The solar system, shed and main house were designed and built personally by myself and my wife. It, and its design and construction is described in our all solar house.
Q. Can a stand-alone solar system produce sudden peaks?
I read in one of your books that solar input can suddenly peak. What causes it? Can it damage the solar regulator?
A. It can happen briefly where nearby surfaces are reflective (e.g. near an expanse of water or light sand). Sunlight is received directly by the solar modules, but some is reflected upward from such surfaces. If there is light white scattered cloud, that energy may then be reflected down again an received by the solar modules. There is usually little if any nett gain as the scattered cloud also blocks the sun from time to time. Solar modules self limit (at their claimed output) anyway. Almost all solar regulators current limit in the event of excess – so there is no need for concern.
Our current (plus 6 kW) system is 50 metres from the sea is prone to short term high peaks. So too was our 3.8 kW stand-alone system north of Broome (WA). It was close to sand dunes, a tidal lagoon and the Indian ocean.
Q. I have no more solar power when it’s very sunny – why?
I self-built my own system following the excellent advice in your book Solar Success. It achieves what your book says almost all the time. There is, however, only a little more when there’s sun all day long. What’s wrong?
A. The approaches in my books are conservative. So-designed systems have excess solar capacity to ensure adequate output during periods of less sun. When solar input is more than normal the batteries fully charge sooner. The solar regulator cuts back the charge accordingly. Were it otherwise, your batteries would overcharge.
Where applicable, excess such energy can be used to pump bore water to a high-located tank, increase irrigation, or be used to do that long-put off welding etc. Some solar regulators have an auxiliary terminal that can be programmed for such use.
Q. Do solar arrays need regular cleaning?
I’m planning to have a big (10 kW) solar array in an arid outback area. Will the solar modules need regular cleaning? If not, will they lose much power? It only rains here during a month or two each year.
A. Dry dust is usually blown off by wind gusts. Heavy rain cleans them adequately. Minor rain (if the modules are dusty) tends to turn that dust into mud (that may then dry on them). High humidity can do the same. Apart from that, there is usually no need or cleaning (as long as the modules slope sufficiently to stop animals using them as toilets!). The loss through dust alone rarely exceeds 5%.
Q. Charging voltage too high?
My solar regulator allows my Trojan deep cycle batteries to go to almost 14.7 volts before dropping back to 14.2 volts. I’ve heard that 14.7 volts is way too high.
A. For those batteries, that brief peak voltage is only too high above 40º C. Most solar regulators and chargers are programmable for various types of batteries. Some have a (usually optional) temperature battery probe that adjusts charging voltage to suit ambient temperature. Gel cell and AGM batteries charge at lower voltage. Be guided by the battery maker.
Q. Do MPPT regulators increase input by ‘up to 30%’ as many vendor’s claim?
A. ‘Up to’ statements have next to no meaning. A Multiple Power Point Tracking (MPPT) regulator does not ‘increase input’ as such. It assists recover energy otherwise lost. That ‘30% more’ is likely to be for an hour or so very early in the morning and late afternoon. It is thus ‘up to 30%’ of not very much. They do work, but do not expect to recover more than 10%-15% a day. Be aware that many cheap ones marketed as MPPT (typically on eBay) have no MPPT function. Buy only well known brands.
Q. I’m worried about my batteries. Solar brings them to 14.5 volts during the day but then drops to only 12.8 volts. It also drops to 12 volts when the microwave oven is used.
A. Your battery bank is almost certainly just fine! That drop from 14.5 volts to 12.8 volts is normal. The battery’s voltage begins to fall when charging ceases. It typically falls to 12.70-12.80 volts off load. The drop to 12 volts with the microwave oven is likewise normal.
Except with a massive battery bank, the instantaneous voltage under load gives little indication of state of charge. The charge (in effect) is held in the electrolyte (the water/acid mix). There is a time lag between charging or applying a load before the charge is again evenly distributed. All you ‘measure’ when the battery is charging, or supplying a heavy load, is that on or very close to the plates’ surface at that moment. The internal reactions are so slow it may take a day or two for a totally off-load voltage measurement to reflect the true state of charge.
Furthermore, a close-to fully charged battery can seem almost flat for some time after a heavy load (like a microwave oven). Many perfectly good batteries get replaced by not understanding this.
Designing, specifying and installing a stand-alone solar system is readily possible for anyone handy with tools and ideally with a basic knowledge of electrics. My book Solar That Really Works!, now in its fourth edition, tells all you need to know (and more) for stand-alone solar in boats, cabins, camper trailers, caravans and motorhomes. My associated book, Solar Success does likewise for homes and property systems. It help resolve problems with stand-alone solar.
For full information relating to RV electrics and solar, my book Caravan & Motorhome Electrics, covers the topic in depth. My other books are the all-new Caravan & Motorhome Book, and the Camper Trailer Book. For information about the author please Click on Bio.